Class Schedule - May 2012

The new class session starts on June 2, 2012 (except for puppy class, which is always open).

Puppy Class (openings available)

This class is an ongoing class - signups available anytime.

Time: 12:30 p.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Cost: $5.00 per puppy per class

Puppy ages: 8 to 20 weeks

Requirements: Puppies must be as up to date on shots as possible. Puppies should be carried from the car into the classroom.

Goals: Appropriate socialization, housetraining, body handling, and environmental enrichment. Classes include handouts and troubleshooting problem behaviors.

Foundation I (openings available)

Time: 11 a.m. class (openings available) and 1:30 p.m. class (openings available)

Cost: $80 per 6 week session.

Dog ages: 20 weeks and up

Requirements: All dogs must be appropriately vaccinated.

Goals: This class includes basic behaviors such as sit, down, sit-stay, down-stay, recalls, and loose leash walking, plus troubleshooting common behavioral problems such as inappropriate greetings and counter surfing. It will also include foundation training for dog sports: focus training, impulse control, off leash work, introduction to equipment. Courses will include basic rally, some jump and tunnel work and other foundation behaviors.

Foundation II (openings available)

Time: 10:00 a.m. (openings available) and 2:30 p.m. class (openings available)

Cost: $80 per 6 week session.

Requirements: All dogs must be appropriately vaccinated. In order to take Foundation II, dogs must either have taken Foundation I or have permission from the instructor.

Goals: This class includes advanced behaviors such as sit-stay and down-stay at a distance and with distractions, recalls, and off leash work. It will also include foundation training for dog sports: focus training, impulse control, off leash work, introduction to equipment. Courses will include rally, some jump and tunnel work and other foundation behaviors.

Foundation III (openings available)

Time: 8 a.m (openings available) and 9 a.m. (full)

Cost: $80 per 7 week session. Students in this level are eligible for buying classes in bulk: buy 6 weeks at $80, get one week free (7 weeks for $80). Buy 10 weeks at $130, get two weeks free (12 weeks for $130).

Requirements: All dogs must be appropriately vaccinated. In order to take Foundation III, dogs must either have taken Foundation I or II or have permission from the instructor.

Goals: This class focuses on advanced foundation training for dog sports: focus training, impulse control, off leash work, introduction to equipment. Multiple distractions will be used and advanced stay behaviors trained. Courses will include rally, jump and tunnel work and other foundation behaviors. Students that have taken this level should be ready to take an agility or rally seminar and keep up with the class.

Private Lessons: House Calls

Time: contact Stephani for available days and times

Cost: $50 for the first visit.

Private lessons are available for basic behaviors and behavioral issues such as fear and aggression.

It is official!

Right on the Mark Dog Training, LLC has now been formed!

Body Handling Issues - Nail Trimming

With many behavioral issues, we go back to the basic desensitization and counter conditioning "rules."  The "rules" can be found at the link below.

http://ellaherdingcats.blogspot.com/2011/11/fear-based-behaviors-overview.html

When working with a dog that dislikes having his nails trimmed, we start very slowly and use a very high value treat. Some dogs have learned to snap when a hand comes close to their feet, so we start at a safer spot, such as the shoulder area. If your dog has back-end handling issues, you can do the same steps as below, but start at the shoulder area and work very slowly to the hip area and then down the back leg. If, at any time, you feel unsafe, consult with a professional dog trainer!

Make your dog and yourself comfortable for this, since this should be enjoyable for both of you. A grooming table can be very useful or have the dog lie quietly on the couch while you sit beside him. If you already use a clicker or a marker word, it can be used during desensitization and counter conditioning. Or, you can just give the treat. Each session should be about 5 minutes long and you can do multiple sessions per day, but do not take the next step until the dog is completely comfortable during the current step.

Some dogs have become afraid of the clippers, so having them where the dog can see them can be helpful, but we will not pick them up at first.

Assuming the dog does not mind being touched at the shoulder, start by gently touching and patting the shoulder area. At the same time, click, if using the clicker, then give a treat. Repeat this: touch the shoulder area, click, and then give a treat.

When the dog is happily anticipating your touch at the shoulder area, move your hand to the elbow area. Touch, click and treat.

Here are the next areas: upper leg, ankle, foot. Remember to practice at each area until the dog becomes completely comfortable.

Signs that the dog is not comfortable: panting, lip flicking, tucked tail, shaking, looking away, snapping, or growling. Some other signs include pulling the paw away or running away during the training session. If any of these happen, then you need to back up at least one, if not two steps.

Signs that your dog is comfortable: tail wagging, looking for the treat, offering the paw, begging.

Once your hand is on or near the dog’s foot, try holding the foot gently in your hand for the count of one. Remember that we are still clicking and treating! Slowly build up duration (time) that the dog’s foot is in your hand by working on one second hold, then two second hold, then one second hold, then three second hold and so on.

We are not quite to the clipping stage yet! We still need to part the toes, touch the foot with the clipper, clip the clipper, and then clip the nails. For the first two steps, still click and treat as you do them.

The “clip the clipper” step is an important one. During this step, we will use an old set of clippers and some toothpicks. Every time you clip a toothpick, your dog will get a treat. Do this over and over until he becomes comfortable with the noise. Once comfortable with the noise, clip the toothpick while holding or touching the dog’s foot with your hand (this takes a little practice).

Once the dog is comfortable with the noise, it is time to pair the holding of the paw with the clipping of the clipper. If your dog is easygoing, you could try to clip one nail at this point. When first starting to clip, I give a treat before and after the clip. Two treats for each nail. Once the dog is completely comfortable with being clipped, then I phase out the beginning treats and give one after each nail.

To review the steps: shoulder, elbow, upper leg, ankle, foot, holding foot, parting toes, touch the foot with the clipper, clip the clipper, clip the nails.

To review the rules: do not proceed to the next step until your dog is completely comfortable with the step that you are working on. Some dogs can fly through all of the steps in one session, but this in the exception. Taking a week or more per step is not uncommon.